Day 14 - Dunbar to Glasgow

Happy Birthday to John Muir!  Yes, the Scottish-born "father" of the American National Parks was born on April 21, in the town I happened to wake up in this morning.  My view at breakfast this morning:

Where I stayed: the Rocks (restaurant, bar, and inn)

I checked out, then went down the steep steps to the beach to complete a small task.  I'd picked up 2 small stones on the beach in Helensburgh the day I started out.  One to keep, and one to leave on the beach in Dunbar.

The beach

The stones - Helensburgh to Dunbar (the one on the right is coming home with me)

I had a bit of time to stroll Dunbar to visit the Harbour and High Street shops before heading to the station to take the train to Glasgow.

Dunbar Harbour

The ruins of Dunbar Castle

Scottie waiting patiently outside a shop for his human

One of the cleanest, most pleasant public toilets I've ever been in.

Guidebooks for middle-age

There's a nice statue on High Street that depicts John Muir as a boy

I found stuff during this journey.  Different experiences.  New friends.  Re-established connections.  Solitude.  Peace.  Solid earth.

Twenty-five pence.

I lost some stuff, too.  A fair amount of stress.  Weight from my duffel bag as things were used up.

The mate to this rubber pole tip.  It's somewhere buried in the mud on the side of Bar Hill outside of Auchinstarry, waiting for some future archeologist to unearth it and try to determine its origins and how it was connected to a hill with the remains of a Roman fort.

The toenail from my right pinky toe.  No, I didn't take a photo.

This was an amazing journey, and probably the most intense physical challenge I've set for myself.  For my next walk, I'd like a companion to come with me, to share the experience, and serve as a cheerleader on those days when the last few miles seem too long.

One last night in Scotland.  Flight back to the states tomorrow morning, then an overnight with a friend in NJ before taking the train back to VA on Saturday to snuggle with my cats.

Day 13 - North Berwick to Dunbar

The day dawned clear and chilly, and I headed out before 9:00.  This last stretch was supposed to be 14 miles, and I was determined to do them all.  I left North Berwick and headed uphill on the main road for a bit until turning off onto quieter country roads and narrow lanes, where I'd be walking for most of the day.

Flowers growing on a stone wall, North Berwick

Drysuit drying

Farm gate

CAUTION:  Horses, Pedestrians, Toads

River Tyne

Farm Shop near the Tyne ("Kelpie Compost"?)

I was pretty happy to realize that I was entering the John Muir Country Park, as this was an indication that I was getting close.  The park's paths led me beside a tidal estuary, shady woods, and past some sort of family park that had playground equipment and livestock (including llamas and emus).

River Tyne estuary and my entrance into John Muir Country Park

Belhaven Bay

Ice cream truck!

This actually isn't a bridge to nowhere.  If you catch the tides at the right time (and no, I did not), the footers of the bridge are dry, and you can walk across Belhaven Bay via the sand flats and footbridge.

I took the clifftop trail along the edge of a golf course and followed the Way around and into Dunbar.

Cliff-side golf course

My lodging is in view, the left-most building of the line of buildings

I walked past my lodging in order to find John Muir's birthplace, so I could officially say I was done.  The house he was born in has been turned into a wonderful little museum devoted to his life and work.  The docent whipped up a certificate of completion for me, and I headed back to The Rocks to check in and have an amazing dinner.

Won't be up too much longer, but I get to sleep in tomorrow.  I'll have a bit of time to explore Dunbar for a while, then I'll collect my luggage and go to the train station, where I'll catch a train to Glasgow, where I'll spend one last night in Scotland.

Day 12 - North Berwick Rest Day

Sunrise over Bass Rock

After a tasty breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, fried bread, yogurt, juice, and coffee, I walked down the beach to the bus stop near the Seabird Centre to catch the bus to Tantallon Castle.  The JMW does pass by the castle, but it's a bit of a detour - this is one of the reasons why I decided on a rest day here.  The castle is right on a cliff top, with a pretty awesome view of Bass Rock.

Yoga on the beach, NB bus stop

Tantallon Castle

Doocot and castle

Inside the doocot. Doves/pigeons were kept in here to provide needed meat and eggs for the castle residents.

Castle well, dug 32 feet down through solid rock.

The Watcher.  Near the Seabird Centre.

Beach wheelchairs are available to hire.

No gents, you DON'T go IN the harbor.

Eider.  Type of duck.

Beach shells

Wing

Selfie on the rocks

This could end badly...

... but it didn't.

Weather today was SPECTACULAR.  Sunny and a light breeze all day.  After visiting the castle, I returned to the town to roam the streets and shops.  I wound up eating lunch at the Seabird Centre café (since the seafood shack I wanted to go to wasn't open), then I strolled leisurely down the beach back towards The Wing.  I sat on the rocks across the street from the B&B for over an hour, just watching the tide recede.  Currently sitting in front of the windows of the guest lounge, not wanting to miss a moment of this amazing view.  It's going to be hard to leave tomorrow, but I have one last day on the trail.  Tomorrow I reach Dunbar, where John Muir was born.